Stormguard Around Loft Attic Hatch Door Draught Excluder Seal Strip Weather Proofing Insulation. (4 x 685mm, Brown)

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Stormguard Around Loft Attic Hatch Door Draught Excluder Seal Strip Weather Proofing Insulation. (4 x 685mm, Brown)

Stormguard Around Loft Attic Hatch Door Draught Excluder Seal Strip Weather Proofing Insulation. (4 x 685mm, Brown)

RRP: £99
Price: £9.9
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The first stage of draughtproofing is to identify any areas where air is entering or leaving your home. Good use of draft proofing could reduce your air permeability to around 8-10 metres cubed per hour which is a good low-cost way of reducing you heating bills. If you have a hinged loft hatch that doesn’t rest on a post then you’ll need to apply the foam strips to both the hatch surround and inside of the hatch frame so that the two strips meet and squash together a tiny bit. New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging .

Wooden windows and doors are particularly bad for this as they shrink, swell and warp during the seasons, potentially leading to large gaps. You may also have holes in your ceilings for spotlights, and holes in the walls for the light switches. It’s important to distinguish between draught-proofing and insulating your loft hatch as these are not the same thing. The recent trend for removing carpets to expose the floorboards has exacerbated this effect because cold air can flow unrestricted through the gaps between the boards. Draught-proofing must complement insulation and vice versa, and one without the other will have a negative effect on your home.

If your loft space is currently uninsulated, this can make a big difference to the temperature of your home and your energy bills. So, in a bid to combine fitness with frugality, I've rounded up 20 ways you can exercise and get fit without spending a penny, both outdoors and at home. So, can anyone recommend an insulation strip that will offer flexibility to allow the catch to work as well as offering a similar level of insulation. Out of interest, the joiner told me to fit an extra catch on the door so it doesn't drop down accidentally. Applying a door gasket is a relatively simple and economical way to create a more insulated environment.

Draught-proofing is the process of sealing gaps in the external fabric of the building to prevent heat loss by air flow. Quite a neat way of doing this is gluing a plastic carrier bag to the top of the loft hatch (covering as much of the loft hatch as you can without going over any of the edges. Without completely protecting the loft area, including the hatch, you may find that warm air funnels through the hatch space, thus making the rest of your insulation relatively ineffective. The cold (blue) areas around the sides and top of the door in the first image are caused by air leakage. Make sure that the two strips meet, as this will create an airtight barrier to prevent air from sure to leave the door at least 48 hours after applying the sealant before opening to allow it to set properly. I suspect the opening is not perfectly square, so I would cut it to size with just a 'little' extra, then plane and sand edges to make it fit snug. Stuff the bag full of insulation and seal it closed, making sure the seal won’t break when you open and close the loft as this could result in you inhaling the fibres or them getting on your skin. If you have a breeze coming down your open chimney, try a universal chimney draught excluder to ensure you never feel the chill again. If this is the case with yours, you’ll have to apply the tape to the frame and the hatch so that the two strips meet when the loft hatch is closed.

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